Luxury fashion house Gucci has just announced the launch of its first ever sustainable collection, Off the Grid. But what does that mean exactly, and just how sustainable are they?
In an industry rife with green-washing (largely unsubstantiated eco and ethical claims), is Gucci serious about sustainability or simply attempting to placate an enviro-conscious audience.
Either way we were very interested to investigate, and share what we learned.
Pre-release press announcements by major media outlets like Elle and WWD were highly complimentary of the “first ever sustainable collection” for the brand which uses a mixture of sustainably sourced materials. Vogue.com even described the move as a “Symbol for the New Era” quoting Gucci Creative Director responsible for the collection, Alessandro Michele.
In the absence of a press release, to learn more about the new sustainable range we headed to Gucci.com to review a few items from the 24-piece collection.
Source: Gucci.com
Our first observation was Gucci’s representation of the capsule as being designed “for those mindful of their environmental impact” (so, all of us?), and produced using a mix of “recycled, organic, bio-based and sustainably sourced materials”, comprising a collection of predominantly unisex bags, wallets and footwear.
The first item we selected for review was their headline piece – the Off the Grid Backpack available in black or orange and priced at a comparatively conservative AUD 2,850 (based on similar styles to the label).
Earning points for transparency, the product description provides a detailed list of the materials used to construct the bag right down to the recycled packaging, which includes;
- Outer construction – GG nylon made from ECONYL®
- Leather trims tanned using “alternative metal or chrome free tanning process” – source of material unknown
- Metal hardware made from recycled brass alloys with nickel-free finishes
- Recycled ribbon trims, cords and plastic buckles
- Recycled polyester thread
- Regenerated nylon lining
- Shipped flat in an FSC-certified recycled gift box, with recycled nylon flannel dust bag.
Next we explored one of two garment options currently available, the Off the Grid Zip-up Jacket Windbreaker priced at AUD 1,700, featuring;
- Outer construction – black GG nylon made from ECONYL®
- Inner – unlined
- Recycled polyester thread
- Recycled polyester zip pockets and closure
- Drawstring waist – source unknown
- Elastic detail at the cuffs – source unknown
- Recycled polyester interior labels
- Made in Italy
- FSC-certified recycled shopper
Ultimately we learned that the sustainability credentials of the collection rely heavily on their use of the patented regenerated nylon fabric Econyl®.
Econyl creates new nylon – typically an unsustainable synthetic polymer (plastic-based) material – by utilising waste resources such as industrial plastic, waste fabric and fishing nets, making it a viable eco-positive product extremely popular with swimwear and outerwear brands.
While additional effort has been made to use recycled materials, it is difficult to know their source or whether they were authentically recovered, or simply re-purposed from other collections – which even if so, at least they have been saved from the more common fate of luxury components, destruction or landfill.
One commentary of the collection is that rather than altering their signature aesthetic by opting for more long-term sustainable, natural or organic materials (which are considered circular and repetitively recoverable, compostable or recyclable), the label has opted for a construction which is largely synthetic and leather based.
GUCCI Off the Grid Zip Jacket
GUCCI Off the Grid Backpack
Shiraz & Chocolate Hamper
Cotton Cable Knit Jumper
Bamboo Viscose Bed Socks
Organic Dyed Espaco Top
Organic Longsleeve Mock
Hi Top Canvas Sneaker
Pinto Top
Avery Denim Skirt
Emmy Sneaker
Giselle Top
Arabella Linen Top
Tencel Jacket Bamboo Print
Los Gatos Bomber Jacket
Tencel Daisy Dress
Alanis Motif Top
Organic Cotton Bralette
Leak-Proof Period Undies
Socks That Fight Hunger
Celeste Wool Jacket
Elvis Linen Jacket (Vegan)
Leak-Proof Period Pants
Law of Attraction Deluxe Journal
Frenchy Long Sleeve Breton Stripe
Probiotic Coconut Coffee 400g
Green Tea Mint Sanitiser 50ml
Hydrating Hair Treatment Oil
“White Fragility”
“Untamed”
Fight the Flu Oil Pack
Organic Rosehip Oil 50ML
Rosehip Hydrate Pack
Immunity Essential Oils
Sequin Dress Blush
Reese Jumpsuit Poppy
Tie Front Dress
Juno Dress
Chapter One Dress
Synchronize Wrap Dress
Duke Dress
Ariella Pantsuit
“How To Be an Antiracist”
Jasmine Vines Mini Dress
Sustainable Runners
D’Orsay Shoe
Bella Sweat
Hemp Shirt
Organic Cotton Trench
Sustainable Luxe Bag
Silk Teddy
TINTED COCO-SUNSCREEN
Cheeky Pant
Chandre Trousers
Floral Halter top
Kate Beynon Dress
Cork Yoga Block
Foodies Collective Box
Piper Sandal
Split Moon Ring
Luxe Lace One Piece
Coconut Fibre Bag
Bamboo Toothbrush
Embroidered Kaftan
What about ethics?
Officially relating to this range, Gucci makes guarantees that along its entire supply chain, “internationally recognized social and environmental responsibility standards are respected and consistent with the company’s own commitment to the ethical and sustainable management of its operations”, a difficult statement to interpret in the least. Further insights however, obtained from their Equilibrium site dedicated to laying out Gucci’s people and environmental policies, state the company adheres to a Code of Ethics, a Modern Slavery statement and SA8000 certification management system.
In conclusion, as one of the first original fashion houses to commit to an entire sustainable range, Gucci and creative director Michele are certainly due credit for taking action where others appear to be stuck in the past, or show continued apathy with their ‘wait and see’ approach.
On a broader scale, efforts by Kering Group who own Gucci, Balenciaga and Alexander McQueen among others, are nothing short of exemplary when it comes to leadership in improving sustainability, not only in their businesses but in an over-arching strategy which seeks to bring the fashion industry forward together. The group have been consistently ahead of the curve in their efforts to establish greater collaboration and sustainable innovation, and play an active part in education and initiatives like The Fashion Pact; a coalition of global fashion and textile companies for reducing the industry’s environmental impact.
We can only hope that the fashion clique embrace the range with enough enthusiasm to make luxury brands like Gucci and their peers shift their attention towards a circular fashion economy, with urgency, and into the future.
Header image: equilibrium.gucci.com
Sources:
‘https://www.gucci.com/au/en_au/st/capsule/circular-line-off-the-grid
‘https://equilibrium.gucci.com/
https://www.kering.com/en/sustainability/
‘https://www.vogue.com/slideshow/gucci-off-the-grid-alessandro-michele-circularity-sustainability
